Workwear for women

A jacket. It is the piece people notice first, it works across the most outfits, and the gap between a fitted jacket and an off the peg one is the most obvious. Trousers are the usual second commission. If you want to start without committing to a full bespoke pattern, see our made-to-measure tailoring for women.

Three or four to start. Two jackets and two bottoms, worn in rotation, will cover a normal week. Rotation matters more than volume, because wool needs a rest day between wears to recover its shape. Most clients build from there over a year.

Yes, and it is the cheapest way to make a small wardrobe look bigger. We plan colour and texture so your jackets and trousers cross over. A charcoal jacket over navy trousers works well as long as the textures are different enough to look deliberate.

A suit jacket is cut from the same cloth as its trousers or skirt and is meant to be worn with them. A blazer is built to stand alone, usually in a heavier or more textured cloth, with a slightly softer shape. Most clients end up with both.

Gaping happens when a jacket is cut for a flat chest and then pulled over a curve. We shape the front panels, move the darts, and set the button position to your body rather than a size chart. On a fuller bust we also adjust the lapel line so the front stays closed without pulling.

Pick one shoe height and cut to it. A trouser hemmed for a three inch heel will drag on flats. If you switch often, the answer is either a second pair hemmed for your other shoe, or a slightly cropped length that sits well with both. Bring the shoes you wear most to your fitting.

Yes. Every pocket is a working pocket unless you ask us to close it. Trouser pockets are cut deep enough to hold a phone without gaping. We can also add an inside jacket pocket sized for a phone, a passport or a pen.

Yes. We can build hidden side or panel openings into dresses and blouses, use front fastenings that open cleanly, and cut a jacket that still sits properly when the layer underneath changes. Mention it at your consultation and we plan it in from the start.

Around 250 to 290 grams. It holds a crisp line, is not stifling indoors, and copes with a cold meeting room. Lighter open weaves are better for travel and summer. Heavier cloth is better for winter commutes and anything outdoors.

High twist wools. The yarn is spun tighter, so the cloth springs back after you have sat on a train or at a desk all day. A little stretch in the weave helps if you sit for long stretches. Linen and soft cotton crease by nature, so we keep those for relaxed settings.

Some cloths, yes. Certain wool blends and performance weaves can be washed cool and hung to dry. A canvassed jacket should never go in a machine, but trousers, skirts and shirts often can. Tell us if washability matters and we will steer you towards the right cloth.

The camera flattens shape, so structure does more work than usual. A defined shoulder and a clean collar read well on screen. Mid tones hold detail better than black, which tends to disappear. Avoid very fine checks and stripes, because they can shimmer on camera.

We usually suggest it. Trousers wear out roughly twice as fast as the jacket, so a spare pair can double the life of the suit. Order both together so the cloth comes from the same batch and the colour matches exactly.

Two or three times a year for a suit in regular rotation. Cleaning strips the natural oils from wool, so brush it after each wear, hang it overnight to air, and spot clean small marks. A steam is usually enough to freshen a jacket between cleans.

Yes. Once your pattern is drawn we keep it on file, so a second jacket or an extra pair of trousers does not need the full first fitting again. Repeat commissions are quicker than a first one, and can often be handled by video.

A properly made wool suit worn once or twice a week should give you five to ten years. Trousers go first, which is why we suggest the spare pair. If your shape changes along the way, the fit guarantee covers the adjustments.