Tailored shirts and blouses for women

Yes, and it is one of the easiest ways to start. Bring the shirt in and we will measure it flat, note what you like about it and what you would change. Most people love the collar but want the sleeves shorter, or love the length but want more room through the hip. We can keep the good parts and fix the rest.

Gaping happens when the shirt is too narrow across the bust and a button lands in the worst possible place. We fix it two ways. First, we cut enough room across the chest and shape the waist separately, so the shirt is not straining. Second, we set the button positions to your body rather than to a standard spacing, which puts a button at the fullest point instead of a gap. A hidden placket is another option if you want a very clean front.

Yes, because fitted does not mean tight. We build movement into the back and the armhole so you can reach forward, type and drive without the shirt pulling at the shoulder. A higher, smaller armhole actually gives you more movement than a low loose one. If your day involves a lot of reaching or presenting, tell us and we will allow for it.

If you tell us you tuck, we cut it to stay tucked. That means a longer, curved shirt tail that sits well below the waistband so it does not work loose when you sit or reach. If you wear shirts loose, we cut a shorter, straighter hem that looks finished on its own. Tell us which you do, or ask for one of each.

Yes to both. A short sleeve should finish just above the elbow and sit close enough not to flap, which is where most off the peg versions go wrong. Sleeveless shirts need the armhole cut higher and neater so nothing gapes when you lift your arm. Both work well in linen and cotton for summer.

We steer people away from them. Non-iron is a chemical resin finish applied to the cotton. It does cut down on creasing, but it makes the cloth stiffer, less breathable and shorter lived. A good poplin or twill presses in a couple of minutes and feels far better against the skin. If ironing is the problem, we would rather pick you a cloth that creases less by nature, such as a twill or a fine oxford.

Barely. The shirtings we use are pre-shrunk before we cut, and we allow a little extra in the length for the small amount of movement that remains. Wash at 30 degrees, skip the tumble dryer and hang the shirt to dry on a hanger while it is still damp. Heat is what shrinks cotton, so the dryer is the thing to avoid.

Usually yes. Hand wash in cool water with a detergent made for silk or wool, do not wring it, and roll it in a towel to take the water out. Dry it flat and out of direct sunlight, then press on the reverse with a cool iron. Some deep colours can bleed on the first wash, so test a hidden seam first. We will tell you at the fitting if your particular cloth is better dry cleaned.

The yellow is usually the aluminium in antiperspirant reacting with sweat, not the sweat itself. Let deodorant dry fully before you dress, wash the shirt soon after wearing rather than leaving it in the basket, and keep chlorine bleach away from it, because bleach makes the staining worse on cotton. A natural cloth like poplin or a fine oxford also breathes better than a synthetic blend, which helps.

Yes. Collars and cuffs always go first because they rub against skin and desks. Rather than replacing the whole shirt, we can fit a new collar and new cuffs and give you another few years out of it. Bring the shirt back to us and we will match the cloth as closely as we can.

There is no minimum. Most people start with two or three, so they can try different collars and cloths and see what they reach for. Once your pattern is right it stays on file, so reordering later is quick and you do not need to be measured again unless your shape has changed.