What Should You Look For In A Well Tailored Suit?

Why is the tailoring process important?

Choosing the Right Tailor

Getting a suit made is about more than just measurements. A good tailor will listen to what you want, give honest advice, and never rush you into decisions.

• Expert Advice: A skilled tailor will tell you what works best for your body shape, not just agree with everything you say.

• Multiple Fittings: A quality suit takes time. Expect at least two or three fittings to get everything just right.

• Good Communication: A professional tailor will check in with you throughout the process, not just hand you a finished suit with no discussion.

What makes a high-quality suit?

Fabric: The Foundation of a Great Suit

The fabric you choose affects how your suit looks, feels, and wears over time. A proper bespoke suit is always made from 100% natural fibres like wool, cashmere, or silk. The best tailors source fabrics from renowned mills such as Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry, and Dormeuil.

• Wool Suiting: Super 120s to Super 150s wool is a great balance between softness and durability.

• No Synthetic Blends: Avoid suits with polyester, as they don’t breathe well and wear out quickly.

• Seasonal Suiting: Choose heavier wool for winter and lighter fabrics like linen or fresco wool for summer.

Fit and Structure: How Should a Suit Fit?

A well-fitted suit should follow the lines of your body without feeling too tight or too loose.

• Shoulders: The jacket shoulders should sit perfectly in line with your own. No overhang, no pinching.

• Jacket Length: It should cover your seat but not hang too low.

• Sleeves: Leave about half an inch of shirt cuff showing.

• Trousers: The waistband should fit without a belt, and the length should match your preference, whether full, slight, or no break.

How can you tell if a suit is well-made?

Stitching and Construction

The stitching is where you can tell a good suit from a bad one.

• Hand-stitched Lapels: Quality suits have rolled lapels, not flat, machine-pressed ones.

• Pic Stitching: Tiny hand-sewn stitches along the lapels, pockets, and cuffs show real craftsmanship.

• Seam Allowance: A proper suit has extra fabric inside the seams for easy future adjustments.

Buttons and Buttonholes

Even small details like buttons can show how well a suit is made.

• Material: Quality suits use buttons made from buffalo horn or mother-of-pearl, not plastic.

• Handmade Buttonholes: Proper buttonholes are sewn by hand for a smooth, strong finish.

The Suit’s Interior: What is the difference between full-canvas, half-canvas, and fused suits?

The way a jacket is built affects its durability and shape.

• Full-Canvas Suits: These have a floating canvas layer inside, making them flexible and long-lasting.

• Half-Canvas Suits: A good balance of quality and affordability, reinforcing key areas.

• Fused Suits: These are glued together, making them cheaper but prone to losing shape quickly.

The 10 Rules for Buying a Bespoke Suit

1. Fabric Comes First

Pick the best quality fabric you can afford. Durability matters more than thread count.

2. Be Careful Who You Trust

Some shops claim to make bespoke suits but actually sell modified off-the-rack suits. Do your research.

3. Know the Tailor’s Style

British, Italian, and American tailoring styles vary. Try on a sample jacket to see what works for you.

4. Get Your Body in Shape First

If you plan to lose or gain weight, wait before ordering a custom suit.

5. Get the Fit Right from the Start

A good tailor will keep your pattern on file, making future suits easier to order.

6. Listen to the Tailor

A proper tailor knows how to dress different body types. Take their advice.

7. Stick to Classic Styles

Trendy suits go out of fashion fast. A well-cut navy or grey suit will always look good.

8. Don’t Focus Too Much on Thread Count

Super 110s to Super 120s fabrics strike the right balance between comfort and durability.

9. Start with the Basics

Build a wardrobe with versatile suits before trying bold patterns and colours.

10. Manage Your Expectations

A good suit will fit perfectly, but it won’t make you look like someone else. Focus on wearing it with confidence.

How do you take care of a suit properly?

A quality suit lasts longer if you take care of it properly.

• Limit Dry Cleaning: Too much dry cleaning wears down fabric. Steam or press your suit instead.

• Use the Right Hangers: Wide wooden hangers help maintain your jacket’s shape.

• Rotate Your Suits: Avoid wearing the same suit two days in a row to prevent excess wear.

• Store It Properly: Keep your suit in a breathable garment bag when not in use.

A Suit Worth Wearing

A good suit isn’t just about looking sharp. It’s about feeling comfortable and confident. If you know what to look for in a well-made suit, you’ll get something that fits well, lasts for years, and makes you feel good every time you wear it. Whether you choose a classic two-piece suit, a three-piece with a waistcoat, or a dinner jacket for formal events, quality tailoring makes all the difference.