Stop throwing away suits too soon: the one alteration you need

Why do many suits get discarded too early?

Most suits do not wear out – they just stop fitting properly.

A jacket can look fine on the hanger but feel tight through the shoulders or bulky around the waist. These small fit issues often appear gradually as your body shape changes or the fabric relaxes over time.

Here is what to watch for:

• Tightness or pulling near the buttons

• A collar that no longer sits against the neck

• Seams that feel twisted or under strain

Rather than a problem with the suit itself, these signs usually reflect a change in how your body fits the garment. Ready-made suits rarely allow for long-term changes, and even bespoke tailoring needs a refresh occasionally. When fit changes but the fabric remains sound, the suit may just need realignment, not retirement.

What is waist suppression and why does it matter?

Waist suppression gently shapes the jacket at the natural waistline. This is done through the back seam, pulling the sides inward slightly.

The goal is to bring back the original V-shape of the jacket, making it neat through the waist, balanced across the shoulders, and clean in drape. It is one of the most precise and effective suit alterations that work without reshaping the whole garment.

How does one alteration deliver extra lifespan?

Adjusting the back seam gives the suit new life by restoring its intended silhouette. It refines the fit, reduces tension across the midsection, and improves comfort.

This approach works because:

• The centre seam influences the whole structure

• The waist can be adjusted without touching the upper half

• It sharpens the appearance while reducing wear on stressed fabric

A good back seam alteration does not interfere with the original tailoring. It simply corrects the alignment to suit your current shape.

Unlike surface-level fixes, this type of tailoring respects the garment’s internal structure. It is a small but smart way to extend a suit’s lifespan, often by years.

Even high-end bespoke suits benefit from this. Many are constructed with a floating canvas, which is a flexible inner layer that shapes the jacket without stiffness. This makes them ideal for subtle changes. This kind of precision tailoring can also improve posture and how the fabric moves with your body.

“What if your best suit has not had its best day yet?”

Alteration vs replacement – when should you choose what?

Back seam alterations are highly effective, but they are not a fix-all.

Alter when:

• The fabric is sound, and the issue is fit-related

• The jacket feels boxy or tight but is not damaged

• A better silhouette is desired without a full remake

Replace when:

• The lining is damaged throughout

• The jacket structure has broken down

• The fabric is worn thin across key areas

Understanding when a suit has been outgrown versus worn out can save time and cost. If the structure holds, a tweak often beats a replacement.

How do you commission the alteration and what should you ask your tailor?

To get the best results, it helps to prepare before seeing your tailor.

Checklist before visiting your tailor

• Try on the jacket and note where it feels off

• Pay attention to pulling or bunching at the front

• Bring along a suit you like the fit of for comparison

• Be open about any weight or posture changes

Questions to ask during your tailoring consultation

• Can this be altered without affecting the canvas?

• Is there enough fabric in the seams for adjustment?

• Will this change affect how the jacket sits at the bottom?

At Fielding & Nicholson, tailoring is a partnership. We look at how your body has changed and how the suit has aged. Then we work with the garment’s structure to realign its fit carefully, accurately, and with your comfort in mind.

Watch for poor alterations like:

• Taking in too much and over-straining seams

• Failing to press the seams properly after sewing

• Ignoring how the jacket was originally designed to hang

Bespoke suits are well-suited to this kind of work. They often have extra seam allowance and a flexible structure that makes small changes easier. If you are unsure, ask the tailor to leave space for future tweaks as well. It is a way of prolonging suit quality through tailoring maintenance that adapts as you do.

Myth vs fact: common tailoring misconceptions

Myth: A bespoke suit cannot be altered.
Fact: Bespoke tailoring usually includes more fabric for future changes.

Myth: Changing the back seam ruins the jacket.
Fact: A skilled tailor works within the structure, and the shape is improved, not damaged.

What should you do after an alteration and how do you know when to let go?

Caring for your suit after the fit is adjusted helps keep it in good condition for longer.

DO / DON’T: aftercare basics

Watch for signs it may be time to retire the suit:

• The lining has thinned or split in several areas

• Shoulder seams no longer hold their shape

• Lapels will not sit flat no matter how you press them

When structure gives out, adjustments can only do so much. Still, proper care and well-timed alterations will stretch your suit’s lifespan significantly.

When is the right time for seasonal maintenance?

Use the change of seasons as a reminder to check your suits.

In spring and autumn, review:

• Whether the waist still fits comfortably

• If the shape has relaxed or shifted

• Whether a press or small tweak is needed

A quick seasonal check can prevent long-term issues and keep your wardrobe ready year-round.

Which of your suits might still have life left in it?

If a suit feels off, do not assume it is finished. A single back seam tweak could give it years of extra life.

Fielding & Nicholson tailor every suit with long-term value in mind. With decades of experience and a deep respect for structure and fabric, we know how to bring a good jacket back to its best.

Bring your suit in for a fit review. We will take a look and guide you through the right suit alteration that works.