Black Tie vs White Tie: What’s the Difference and Which Should You Wear?

What’s the real difference between black tie and white tie?

The difference between black tie and white tie lies in their level of formality, historical context, and strict dress code requirements. Black tie is semi formal eveningwear, typically requiring a dinner jacket (tuxedo), while white tie is the highest level of formalwear and calls for a black tailcoat, white bow tie, and full evening ensemble. Knowing which to wear depends entirely on your invitation.

Quick Comparison Table: Black Tie vs White Tie

Black Tie vs White Tie: What Men Need to Know

How does black tie differ from white tie in detail?

Black tie events usually begin after 6pm and call for a dinner jacket, often called a tuxedo, with satin lapels, a white dress shirt with pleats or marcella weave, a black bow tie, and patent leather shoes. A black cummerbund or low cut waistcoat is optional, and the look is sleek and modern.

White tie events require far more detail. Men must wear a black tailcoat cut to the waist at the front and tapering to tails at the back, high waisted black trousers with a satin braid, a stiff white shirt with a wing collar, white piqué waistcoat, and a white bow tie. Shoes should be patent opera pumps or highly polished Oxfords.

The key difference is not just the clothing, but what each look signals: white tie suggests state level or aristocratic formality, while black tie reflects formality with flexibility.

Is white tie still worn today?

Yes, although rare, white tie is still seen in the UK at select events such as White Tie Balls, ambassadorial dinners, the Royal Opera House on gala nights, the Lord Mayor’s Banquet, and some Oxford and Cambridge formal halls. For such invitations, white tie is expected and non compliance is not advised.

Common Misconceptions About Dress Codes

• Myth: A tuxedo is the most formal menswear option.

  • Reality: White tie is the highest level of formality and has more strict requirements.

• Myth: White tie is outdated and never worn anymore.

  • Reality: While rare, white tie is still required at elite events like state banquets and ambassadorial receptions.

• Myth: Black tie means you can wear any black suit.

  • Reality: Black tie specifically refers to a dinner suit or tuxedo, not a regular business suit.

Which dress code applies to your event?

When should you wear black tie or white tie?

If your invite states “black tie”, it means dinner suit (tuxedo) is required, but there may be some flexibility in fabrics and accessories.

If it states “white tie”, the expectations are absolute. This applies to:

• State banquets

• Diplomatic receptions

• The White Tie Ball London

• University formal halls that specify white tie

Black tie is common for:

• Charity galas

• Winter weddings

• Skyball London

• Royal Ascot formal evenings

• Awards dinners and Christmas balls

Some exclusive private members’ clubs may specify white tie for flagship events. Always check the dress code wording.

Dress Code Decoder: What Your Invite Actually Means

• “White Tie” → Full evening tails, white bow tie, piqué waistcoat

• “Black Tie” → Tuxedo or dinner jacket, black bow tie

• “Formal Attire” → Usually black tie unless otherwise noted

• “Black Tie Optional” → Dinner jacket preferred, dark suit acceptable

• “Creative Black Tie” → Tuxedo with flair (velvet, patterned bow ties, etc.)

• “Gala Wear” → Typically black tie or creative black tie depending on host

A photo of a man wearing white tie attire to a royal event in London – Photo created by AI

Women’s Dress Code: Black Tie vs White Tie

What should women wear to black tie and white tie events?

Black tie: Women should wear a full length evening gown or a formal cocktail dress with refined structure. Fabrics like silk, velvet or crepe work well. Trousers are acceptable if tailored, styled formally, and paired with dressy accessories.

White tie: The standard is a floor length evening gown with structured bodice and flowing hemline. Gloves (usually opera length) may be optional but encouraged at highly traditional events. Shoes should be formal, ideally heeled, and jewellery should lean towards elegant rather than flashy.

Hair should be styled to suit the occasion, often up or set formally, especially at white tie. Avoid casual materials or short dresses. Guidance from the British Fashion Council and Debrett’s supports keeping the silhouette polished and understated.

Can you bend the rules? Modern expectations in Todays World

Modern guests are sometimes unsure how rigid these dress codes are. While black tie has become more flexible (think velvet jackets, patterned silk bow ties, or even black turtlenecks at artistic events), white tie has not.

For black tie, you can swap a dinner jacket for a well cut velvet jacket in dark green, burgundy, or midnight blue, but only if the occasion is more creative or festive.

White tie does not allow for improvisation. Longline jackets, dark suits, or missing waistcoats are considered inappropriate. If you do not own the correct outfit, consider renting from a service that specialises in full evening ensembles.

Women can express more individuality, particularly in black tie. But even at white tie events, contemporary designers have started offering gowns that balance tradition with modern cuts. Fit and finish remain crucial.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

1. Mistaking black tie for “just wear a suit” — always check if it calls for a dinner jacket
2. Wearing a business shirt instead of a proper dress shirt with a structured front
3. Choosing shiny synthetic fabrics for gowns — opt for silk, crepe or velvet
4. Skipping footwear formality — black leather shoes or formal heels only
5. Wearing trousers or jackets without proper cut or detail — tailoring makes all the difference
6. Underestimating accessories — waistcoats, bow ties, and gloves can define the outfit

Avoiding these mistakes helps improve dress code compliance and gives you more style confidence on the night.

Should you rent, rewear, or go bespoke?

If you attend formal events rarely, renting a tuxedo or white tie ensemble can make sense. Modern rental services now offer high quality tailoring with optional accessories.

If you are attending multiple events in a season, consider investing in a bespoke dinner suit. It will offer better fit, photo appeal, and comfort. Fielding & Nicholson, Huntsman, and Cad & The Dandy are examples of trusted Savile Row tailors who specialise in formalwear.

Rewearing is perfectly acceptable, just update your accessories or refresh the fit through tailoring. A re lined jacket or freshly pressed lapels can transform the look.

Final thoughts from a formalwear consultant

The key is to match the tone of the event, not outshine the hosts or fall short of expectations. For black tie, keep it classic and crisp. For white tie, follow the rules to the letter.

Planning ahead gives you confidence. And if you are still unsure, a short style consultation with a menswear or eveningwear expert can take the stress away and help you enjoy the occasion in style.

For more guidance on dressing for gala season or creating your event wardrobe, see our UK dress code guide.