What is the best suit combination for a wedding in terms of style and fabric?
It comes down to how it fits, how it feels, and what it’s made from. Really, that’s the core of it. The best wedding suit isn’t the flashiest or the most expensive, it’s the one that holds its shape, breathes properly, and doesn’t make you fiddle with your collar halfway through the vows.
Worsted wool. Mohair. Maybe a silk blend if you’re after a bit of movement and sheen. All solid choices. The style? That depends. Three-piece if you want structure and layering. Dinner suit if the invite says black tie. Something a bit softer for a destination wedding. But above all, it has to feel like you. If you’re wearing a suit that feels like someone else’s idea, it’ll show.
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You’ll notice it’s not really about colour
Sure, the colour matters but not as much as people think. What really makes the difference is how the suit sits. How the cloth drapes over the shoulder. Whether the lapel feels like part of you or something bolted on for the photos.
A wedding’s a long day. Between the ceremony, standing around for pictures, the food, the dancing therefore you don’t want to be adjusting your jacket every five minutes. That’s where cloth and construction come in. Fielding and Nicholson’s clients tend to realise this early on, usually somewhere between the second fitting and trying on a lightweight wool that just… works.
Comfort matters. Not the kind that means baggy trousers or a loose collar, but the kind that lets you forget you’re even wearing a suit.
Dress codes. Let’s talk about them.
Formal, semi-formal, or somewhere in between?
If it’s a formal ceremony in a church, then you’ll like want to wear a morning coat. If you are going for the full works then you’re probably looking at heavier wool, peak lapels, and something with presence. Think barathea wool or a mohair blend with a bit of resilience. Not stiff, just proper.
Semi-formal opens up more room. A two or three-piece suit in mid-weight wool? That’ll do nicely. Maybe a little shape in the shoulder, maybe something softer if the setting calls for it. You’re not restricted, but you’re still expected to show up looking sharp.
Relaxed weddings – and you’ll know when it’s one of those – let you play a bit more. Linen-wool. Silk blends. Lighter construction. Just make sure the tailoring holds up and doesn’t look like you’ve borrowed it from someone on holiday.
Does the time of day affect the choice?
Yes, it does. You feel it in the cloth, not just the cut.
Day weddings do better with lighter fabrics. Fresco, open-weave wool, silk blends. You want something that doesn’t trap heat and still holds a crease when you’re walking around outdoors.
Evening weddings tend to lean more polished. That’s when mohair shines – literally and figuratively. Structured wool, satin facings on a dinner suit, maybe a velvet jacket if you’re feeling brave. It suits the lighting. And the mood.
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Styles that actually work – no fluff
Three-piece suit. Still a strong choice.
You might think it’s a bit traditional. But a good three-piece keeps the whole look tidy. The waistcoat adds depth, and when the jacket comes off later, you still look put together. Plus, it helps shape the torso in a way that’s flattering without looking like you’re trying too hard.
Use a worsted wool here. Or a wool-silk mix if you want that touch of softness. The waistcoat can match, but a subtle variation – different weave, faint texture – gives the groom something distinct without going overboard.
Double breasted? Go for it – but know what you’re getting.
This is a statement. You’re broadening the chest, sharpening the shoulders. If done well, it’s incredibly smart. But it has to be made to fit. No room for guessing here.
It works best in mohair or a tighter weave. Something that holds its shape. You don’t want it collapsing when you sit down or bunching under the arms. Best for taller frames, or if you’ve got the posture to carry it.
Dinner suits and black tie options
There’s still something nice about a proper dinner suit. Wool barathea with satin lapels, side adjuster trousers, maybe a grosgrain waistband. Understated but classic.
And if the wedding leans into evening wear, a velvet jacket in navy or forest green – smooth lapels, strong shoulders – looks the part. Wear it with tailored black trousers in a dry-finish wool. Not shiny. Just clean.
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Fit – the invisible detail that makes the suit
A good suit doesn’t shout. It just fits. The shoulder sits where it should, the jacket collar rests on the shirt without a gap, and the fabric follows the line of your body without clinging to it.
Trousers should fall naturally. No bunching at the ankle. No dragging on the shoe. A slight break or no break at all – depending on your height and the shape of your shoe – is usually best.
This is where bespoke earns its keep. Off-the-peg gets close, but it never quite accounts for posture. Or stance. Or the fact that one shoulder might sit a bit lower than the other.
Fabric choice – the real game changer
Worsted wool is the starting point. It’s versatile, breathable, holds a crease. Pretty much everything you want from a wedding suit.
Mohair? That’s for sharper lines, cooler temperatures, and long ceremonies where you want the jacket to look as good at 10pm as it did at noon. It resists wrinkling. Bounces back. Adds a slight sheen without looking flashy.
Wool and silk blends are softer. Less structured, more relaxed. Great for summer or destination weddings where you still want to look smart, but you need the cloth to move with you.
And linen – look, it creases. But that’s part of the charm. If that doesn’t sit right, try a linen-wool or linen-silk blend. You get the feel without the full crumple.
Winter weddings? Go heavier. Flannel in mid grey or navy. Or wool cashmere blends that add warmth without bulk. It’s not about thickness. It’s about how the cloth handles movement and temperature.
You’ll find more guidance on fabric weights and selection at Fielding and Nicholson’s bespoke page.
What weight should I choose for the season?
Spring and summer – 240 to 280 grams. Think fresco, tropical wool, silk blends. These breathe well and still give structure.
Autumn and winter – 300 grams and up. Flannel, cashmere blends, wool twill. These feel comfortable, hold shape, and offer that bit of extra insulation when the venue’s a little drafty.
Caught between seasons? Go for something around 280 grams. That sweet spot covers you in almost any setting.
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Let’s talk about movement
You need the suit to keep its shape and let you move without feeling like a costume.
Drape matters. High twist wool and mohair help here. They give the fabric bounce and keep it from sagging over time. Shoulder structure, sleeve pitch, chest canvas – all of these affect how the jacket behaves when you’re dancing, hugging people, or leaning in for a photo.
Half canvas construction works well for most weddings. Lighter, more breathable. Still holds its shape.
Small things. Big difference.
A Bemberg or silk lining keeps the jacket moving smoothly. Helps with temperature regulation too. Go for half lining if you want to keep things lighter.
Buttons? Horn, corozo, mother of pearl. Avoid plastic if you can. It cheapens the whole look.
And then there’s hand stitching, functional cuffs, a tidy pick stitch along the lapel. Most people won’t notice them – but you will. And they matter.
Groom and groomsmen – not a uniform
You don’t all have to match perfectly. In fact, it’s better if you don’t.
Keep the cuts consistent – same lapel width, trouser break, overall feel – but let the groom have a slight variation. A waistcoat in a different cloth. A lapel change. A textured tie instead of plain.
It shows thought. Not ego.
Bespoke vs ready to wear – is it worth it?
Yes. You’ll feel the difference the second you put it on.
A bespoke suit is made for your frame. It doesn’t rely on pulling it here or pinching it there. It just fits. The cloth moves with you. The collar stays put. The sleeves don’t ride up when you lift a glass.
And once the day’s over, you’ve got a suit that’ll serve you again. Swap the waistcoat for a roll neck, change the tie, wear it to a dinner. It’s not just for the wedding.
Find out more about Fielding and Nicholson’s fitting process and cloth range here.
Aftercare – keeping it in shape
Hang it on a proper wooden hanger. Let it air. Brush off any dust with a natural bristle clothes brush.
Only dry clean when it actually needs it – too much weakens the fibres. And store it in a breathable garment bag. Not plastic.
It’s a good suit. Treat it like one.
Questions We Get Asked About Wedding Suit Fabrics
What is the most comfortable fabric for long weddings?
Worsted wool in mid weight is breathable, soft, and keeps its shape without clinging.
How do I make my suit stand out from the groomsmen?
Change one thing. Lapel shape, waistcoat cloth, or a textured tie. That’s enough.
Can I wear linen to a formal wedding?
Yes, but make it a linen blend. Linen wool or linen silk works better for structure.
How long should I allow for fittings?
Ten to twelve weeks gives you time for cloth selection, fittings, and any final tweaks.
Can the suit be worn again?
Definitely. A classic cut in good cloth will work for future formal events and dinners.
