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Winter overcoats – What to consider

It’s the time of year where we are pulling our wool overcoats out of the wardrobe, or even thinking about investing in a new one.

Overcoat history stems from military uniforms which became part of well-dressed men’s wardrobes. 

Choosing the right style is easier than it looks.  Read on and find out what to keep in mind when choosing an overcoat.


Chesterfield is the classic single-breasted overcoat. 

The style hasn’t changed much since the middle of the nineteenth century when it first came into fashion.

It is characterised by subtle darts in the front with horizontal flap pockets,  an optional chest pocket and a slit up the centre back with the length being over the knee.

This style works well worn over professional clothing including day and evening suits.



The Loden overcoat is named after an Austrian waterproof wool which is famous for its green pine colour. The Loden was very fashionable in the 60s and 70s and is having a comeback right now.

A single-breasted coat with a shirt collar, stitched flaps over shoulder, slanted flap pockets, a long-inverted pleat down the centre back and with button tabs around the cuffs.

The Loden is a more casual overcoat which is comfortable and suitable for any age.



Ulster, the elegant essential winter overcoat, designed for a more elegant look and suitable for business and for sophisticated occasions.

Full of personality, the Ulster is the chance to show off the skills of your tailor.  Double breasted with large lapels it includes a back box pleat with slit, two deep pleats to the side of the box pleat and sits at below the knee length.

The Ulster is a well-formed and important overcoat.




Men’s overcoats are available in a wide range of fabric from classic wool to technical fabrics which include waterproofed taped seams.

The fabrics that look the best though are always the classic natural fibres.

Wool is a common and great choice for a winter overcoat.  It is warm, has an element of waterproof and is very durable.  it will last you a lifetime if treated well.

Wool is suitable for all situations and styles.

Cashmere might have a bigger price tag, but that little extra investment will be worthwhile.  Cashmere is warmer, softer and more luxurious than any other choice and it means timeless elegance as well as comfort

Just make sure you don’t let the moths enjoy it as well.

If neither of these fabrics suit you, have a chat to your tailor and see what they recommend.




As with suits we generally wear darker colours for our overcoats including black, dark grey and navy.  All these colours respect the rules of formality meaning they can be worn as an everyday item but also work in any more sophisticated, high end situation. Overcoats also look great in camel.  It will help brighten any dark winter look as well as adding a feel of retro elegance.  


We tend to always recommend getting your overcoat over the knee.  This ensures that it fits into all situations and will always look good.


How your overcoat fits ill depends on you and how you like to wear it, whether that is Single or double breasted, close fitting, or a more freeing cut.

This is something to discuss with your tailor.


space Choose Bespoke

We always think you should have your overcoats custom made.  Your tailor will find the perfect fit that you want and the high quality of bespoke manufacturing will make sure that it will last you a life time.  You can make sure it’s exactly what you want with your choice of fabric and lining as well as fit.  We always use the best fabrics available.

Contact us now for your own bespoke overcoat in the comfort of our luxury Dormeuil showroom

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