Styling

Ian Fielding-Cotterill, (founder and Managing Director) discusses what to look for when purchasing a tailor-made suit.

Image matters

What one wears affects one's self-confidence, one's chances of achieving professional goals, or impressing that special someone. A superior suit is essential for any individual who wants to heighten their status and portray the correct image.

Bespoke suits have unsurpassed impact. As each suit is cut and built for the individual, it is as unique as they are. By having an experienced tailor take around 15 accurate measurements and advising on colours, styles and cuts, a truly flattering and comfortable fit is accomplished.

When creating the perfect suit keep these six things in mind:

1. Material world

Choosing a fabric is crucial in the design process. Differing colours, shades and patterns can determine whether a suit is flattering or insulting! A bespoke suit is typically made from high-grade fabrics and has some extra material built into it so if you grow, your suit will accommodate this. With care, a tailor-made suit will last for decades and usually lasts two to three times longer than suits bought "off-the-peg". Fielding & Nicholson tailors have thousands of different cloths to choose from, so you'll never be short of inspiration when creating the desired image.

2. The cut of your trousers

The waistline of your trousers should be comfortable and should allow you to rest two fingers inside the waistline. Pleated trousers suit people with a fuller mid region and should be avoided by slimmer individuals.

3. Leg length

Trousers should reach your shoes and have a slight break. It is important to take the shoe style and heel height into consideration when being measured for trousers.

4. Keep your sleeves at arms length

Make sure your sleeve length is right otherwise you will look like you borrowed someone else's suit. The sleeve should reach the crease of the wrist, revealing half an inch of your shirt cuff. Styling features such as functioning sleeve buttons denote a bespoke suit.

5. Don't be a tailor's dummy

The jacket should close comfortably around the stomach. The amount of buttons on the suit (as with the sleeve) reflects personal preference and they styling one desires, yet a good tailor will also advise with height and posture in consideration. The classic two-button style remains popular. Some two-button jackets offer a fresh twist with higher button placement similar to the three-button style which is often more flattering on taller individuals. Whether your preferred style is classic or modern you should look for subtle styling and fitting options that enhance the shape of your body.

6. Suited and booted

The classic suit is fitted at the shoulder, full in the chest and gently contoured at the waist. You should be able to stretch and move easily in your suit and allow enough leverage to move your arms.

Suit truth: Fit is everything

Something as classic as a grey two button suit can make you look anonymous or make you stand out like a beacon of style. Your sense of style, degree of personal swagger and will make a difference, but the most important aspect of the look is the fit. The biggest difference between a bespoke suit and an off-the-rack suit is that the former will envelope your body more closely. This is a strange sensation at first when you graduate from ready-mades to made-to-measure or full bespoke.

The clue to all of this is that ready-made suits have larger arm holes than custom-made garments. Off-the-rack jackets need to accommodate people with big arms and people with smaller arms -- the easiest solution is to make a big armhole. However, that means that there is more fabric at the side of the jacket below the armhole, so the fit is more relaxed, or comfortable, or full (select your own word, but it still doesn't fit as well as a tailor-made suit).

The three-button suit

Best for: The three-button suit is an excellent option for men taller than six feet because the buttons on the jacket reach higher up on the chest, making it more comfortable and visually appealing on taller men. The three-button suit jacket is also an option for waistcoat enthusiasts.

Trend factor: A three-button suit has a ‘60s-mod feel to it. Accordingly, it has recently made a comeback with several influential designers showing three-button suits in their fall 2009 collections. Although they are not as timeless as their two-button cousins, three-button suits are relatively trend-proof -- so long as you purchase a classic-cut model.

How to wear it: The recent trend for wearing three-button suits has been to fasten the top two buttons, but this can make the lapels on some suits appear unusually short, and you run the risk of appearing somewhat awkward. If you don't naturally have an abundance of confidence, close only the middle button for an elegant look. Whatever you do, never close the bottom button; doing so will distort the drape of the fabric. Additionally, though you will never do up all three buttons because it will create a stiff look, you should be able to close the buttons on a good suit without pulling or stretching the fabric.

When/where to wear it: Three-button suits are a good alternative to two-button suits for office wear, particularly if you're looking to stand out slightly from everyone else in the style department.

The two-button suit

Best for: The two-button suit is the universal standard because its frame-lengthening properties complement virtually all builds, and it has an enduring, classic appeal. If you have a short torso, two-button suits are also the best way to go.

Trend factor: An impeccably tailored two-button suit that lacks unnecessary extras is timeless, so it won't ever go out of style. However, you'll want to replace it every five years to make sure your look stays current. If you don't own a suit or you only keep one at a time in your closet, a two-button suit is a must for you.

We continue to demystify the two-button or three-button suit dilemma, and even talk about the one-button suit…

How to wear it: Only fasten the top button on the blazer when you want to wear your jacket closed. Some modern versions of the two-button suit feature buttons that are positioned higher on the jacket to create a compromise between two- and three-button suits. These contemporary models can be especially flattering, so pay attention to details like button placement when you're shopping for your suit.

When/where to wear it: If you're buying a ready-made suit rather than having one custom-made, invest in a two-button suit because it's really hard to go wrong with this style, even when you're searching for an inexpensive option. Two-button suits are appropriate as work wear as well as for more formal occasions.

The one-button suit

Best for: Men with lean frames who want to appear stylishly sleek should check out one-button suits. However, avoid splurging on this suit; if you already own several two- or three-button suits, you won't wear the one-button suit as often.

Trend factor: Hugely trendy at the moment and for autumn 2009, one-button suits have made a huge resurgence in popularity. If you're contemplating buying one, bear in mind that they are not appropriate for all occasions and you may be much more limited in terms of where and when you can sport this suit.

How to wear it: When you're standing up, the button on the blazer should always be fastened. To avoid an unsightly drape, the reverse is true when you're sitting down. Also, be sure to choose your shirt and tie combination wisely when donning a one-button suit because the low break of the jacket means more of your ensemble is on display.

When/where to wear it: Think jazz-age smooth and break this suit out when a swish evening of picking up glamourous women in glittering nightclubs is in your future. In short, this suit is one you wear for pleasure to appear smoking hot and incredibly suave at the same time, and not because a dress code requires you to wear one.

Larger men & ladies

Don't wear bold patterns: Avoid loud or bold patterns as they will make you stand out in addition to drawing attention to the upper half of your body. One pattern you should wear, however, is vertical lines; they create optical continuity and will help elongate the look of your body. Dark, solid colors are also your new best friend as they are an instant figure fixer and will make you seem 10 pounds thinner.

Wear low-rise bottoms: Instead of wearing trousers and jeans that hit at your waist, invest in low-rise bottoms that sit on your hips. Low-rise trousers have a shorter distance between the top of the waistband and the crotch of your pants than regular trousers. Also, ensure that the waistband of your pants is large enough to accommodate your midsection so that your belly does not stick out over your pants. A stomach that protrudes over your pants lengthens your torso and shortens your legs -- not exactly the most attractive combination. Rotund individuals should also avoid pants with pleats as they will make your pelvic area look bigger.

Empty your pockets: Don't carry around excess baggage. Emptying your pockets of unnecessary items like bulky cell phones, overstuffed wallets and electronic devices will take the focus off a large midsection. On your pants, have any bulky side pockets sewn shut or removed by a good tailor. Doing so won't cost much and it will make your hips appear smaller.

Stay away from horizontal stripes: If there's a little more of you to love, particularly in the stomach area, avoid any kind of horizontal stripe. While you're at it, avoid diagonal stripes too. What you should wear with pride, however, are shirts and trousers with vertical stripes. Vertical stripes draw the eye downward, elongating your silhouette and visually slimming it. Pinstripe suits are the perfect dress-up clothes for you, especially paired with a crisp black dress shirt underneath. Pinstripe dress shirts will also look great when mixed with dark jeans or black trousers. For casual wear, try to find a pair of dark corduroys with slim stripes that are made from thin material.

Avoid double-vented jackets: The slits in the back of your jacket are referred to as "vents." All jackets should cover your bottom. However, if you have a larger behind that makes you feel a bit self-conscious, stay away from blazers and jackets that are double-vented (the ones with two slits in the back) as this cut will draw attention to your posterior. To camouflage a wider rear, go with single-vented jackets or jackets without any vents. If you already own a double-vented jacket that you love, a professional tailor should be able to sew up the slits for you at a fairly minimal cost.

Buy clothes that fit: Many mistakenly believe that tight clothing will smother imperfections and flatten out pudgy shapes. The reason this way of thinking works for women is because women have access to control-top underwear that creates a flatter midsection, thus allowing them to wear tighter clothes. So, unless you are willing to invest in women's underwear (though we implore you not to do so), tight clothing will only draw attention to your flabby bits. In a similar vein, other plus-size men believe baggy clothing will hide bulges. Not so. Overly large clothes will only make you look bigger. The secret to looking slimmer is to choose clothes that are neither tight nor baggy, meaning that all your clothes should just skim your body without hugging it too closely.

The tall and skinny man

Tips for the thin man: Many men spend a lot of time dieting and working out to achieve a slimmer physique, all while harboring serious envy for their skinny counterparts who can eat whatever they please without gaining an ounce. Because society tends to equate being lean with being attractive, it's easy to forget that being too thin is a real problem that some individuals face. When it comes to fashion, just as overweight individuals find it tough to buy clothes that are flattering for a larger body, super-slim people experience difficulty finding clothes that fit well and complement their smaller frames.

One way to bulk up is to join a gym and start lifting weights, alongside eating more protein and other foods that will add muscle mass to a bony body. However, don't worry if you hate exercise or can't seem to fit it into your day, because we've put together a collection of fashion tips for skinny men that will help you create the visual illusion of being larger than you truly are.

Buy blazers with small shoulder padding: To make your upper body look more muscular, purchase blazers with light shoulder padding. Be warned that bigger is not better here, as small shoulder pads will give your back and chest a visual boost, but massive padding will make you seem like a small boy lost in a man's jacket in addition to cheapening your look, even if your blazer is pricey.

Avoid slim-fitting shirts: Avoiding slim-fitting dress shirts and T-shirts is an important fashion tip for skinny men. Instead, opt for tops that come away slightly from your midsection, as these will hide a small ribcage. Don't buy your tops too large, though, as too much extra fabric will make you seem like you're swimming in your shirt. In addition, avoid clingy fabrics. Check the labels on your tops to make sure they don't contain too much elastic.

Tailor your blazers: Only wear single- or double-breasted blazers and make sure to tailor them so they fit properly throughout your entire body. Avoid any loose fabric under the arms or in the shoulder area. Also, a key fashion tip for skinny men is to keep consistency in your tops and bottoms, so don't wear oversize blazers or sweaters with fitted pants (or vice versa) or your thin frame will be glaringly apparent.

Wear jackets at the right length: When it comes to jackets, make sure they all fall right under your buttocks. A shorter jacket will emphasize your height as well as your skinny waist, arms and legs. A longer jacket, on the other hand, can make you look like a blanket-covered stick.

Wear flat-front pants: Your pants should have a classic cut and remain simple with a flat front. Go for straight-leg or slightly boot-cut shapes and steer clear of tapered trousers or skinny jeans. Pockets also add a bit more volume to your shape, as do pleats and cuffs, but wear pants with the latter two features only when they're in fashion. Don't be afraid to wear pants with lines or patterns because these add volume, although you'll want to banish pinstripes from your closet as they will make you look like a beanpole.

Don't wear vertical stripes: No woman wants a man who looks like he's withering away, so if you're tall and thin, choose horizontal stripes to bulk you up a bit. A single, large horizontal stripe across the chest area can be particularly flattering because it will make your shoulders appear broader and will make you look like you have a perfect physique.

Avoid monochromatic looks: If you wear a solid color from head to toe (especially black), you'll seem even thinner than you are, so break up your look by wearing a few different colors in your outfit. Fortunately, playing around with the color palette should be fun and you'll get to experiment with a lot of different looks.

Choose fitted shirts: Loose-fitting, untucked shirts will billow around you and make you look like the mainsail on a mast, so you'll want to choose something more fitted instead. While you should avoid skintight shirts because they will accentuate your bony upper half, do choose slim-cut shirts and learn how to layer them to fake a bit more mass.

Avoid round-toed shoes: If you're really tall, shoes with a round toe will make you look disproportionate. To balance out your shape, go for square-toed shoes. When it comes to dress shoes and city shoes, finding square-toe shoes should not present a problem. If you're at the gym or playing a sport, however, square-toe shoes will be harder to find, so just avoid anything with an overly round shape.

Choose lighter colors: Lighter colors will make you appear slightly larger, so choose whites, creams, light blues, light grays, and pastels to visually bulk you up a bit.

The short man

Opt for square-toed shoes: Pointy-toe shoes are only OK when you're taller and your pant leg can cover most of your shoe. If you are smaller, however, long shoes or really big, bulky ones will make you look like less of a professional and more like a joker. Square-toe shoes are best for you.

Wear heels on your shoes: Although you should avoid wearing overly bulky shoes, you should buy shoes with a substantial heel. Dress boots are a great option for shorter men, and there are so many great styles available nowadays that can be paired with everything from jeans to a suit. To really give yourself added height, wear your dress boots with a longer pant leg that comes to the floor to disguise the heel.

Consider accessories: Clever accessories, like a great necklace, tie or hat can keep people's eyes on your face, making them less likely to pay attention to your stature. Of all your accessory choices, a hat is probably best as it is a fantastic way to provide the illusion of an extra inch or two of height. And by hat, I don't mean a formfitting toque. Try a newsboy cap for an artsy look.

Wear a small rise: The rise in your pants is the distance between the crotch of your pants and the waistband. Shorter men should wear the smallest rise in their pants that they can get away with because a really long rise will make you look like you have a negative butt, as well as making what you've got in front look nonexistent. In contrast, a short rise will visually elongate your legs and avoid making your crotch and bottom area look baggy and empty.

Choose a slimmer necktie: Slimmer to medium-sized neckties will avoid overwhelming your frame. Large ties should be avoided if you are short because they will make your body seem disproportionate by comparison. If you are very short, you might want to check out ties that are both slimmer and shorter.